23 years of Dutch Fashion Foundation projects has grown an amazing family of fashion designers and a ‘second skin’ of creative and facilitating talents. Together they make up the blueprint for Dutch fashion today. Scroll ahead and get to know them all!
It is a work in progress, so watch this space as it unfolds!
Bas Kosters
The multidisciplinary artist and fashion designer Bas Kosters has enriched Dutch fashion with his signature visual language that combines simplicity and poetry, cultural critique and tenderness, social commitment and vulnerability, fashion anarchism and democracy.
The Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium came as a surprise to Bas Kosters at a moment in his career when he had just set out in a new direction toward a more autonomous practice. The honor and financial incentive were pivotal in aiding him to break away from his routines and spend time on residencies in Tokyo and Los Angeles to focus on excavating his essence as a maker and presenting his work in unfamiliar contexts. Tokyo was an intimate encounter with solitude, which brought him to realize that some truths or visions about one’s own work, might as well be very different, and can be changed into new ideas. Los Angeles was all about erotic art and about a profound sense of not knowing with regards to his own work. Bas learned to keep faith and trust all be be well, and that there are some many ways of working, progressing and processing.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Panel member at the 2021 Fashion & I online festival
Camiel Fortgens
The 13th and latest recipient of the Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium, Camiel Fortgens, started making clothes for his graduation project at the Design Academy in 2014, ‘having no clue whatsoever’. He went on and figured it out, gathered a small team around him, and built a quiet brand with a global following based on that genuine curiosity for the very real everyday clothes we wear.
Camiel Fortgens: “We are surprised and very honoured to be granted this award. It is special to receive acknowledgment in our own country, as our work is mostly known abroad. I felt it was a good thing to embrace imperfection and show the hand of the maker in the garment. Society is filtering out human imperfection. Everything is being polished to perfection. We’re being taught to hide behind dreamlike facades. Imperfection has become almost taboo. I want to oppose that.”
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Claes Iversen
Danish born designer Claes Iversen has impressed the Dutch fashion arena with his professional agility and deeply developed oeuvre, which unites many apparent contradictions: timeless elegance vs nowness, glamour vs realism, concept vs craftsmanship.
Receiving the Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium in the middle of the corona pandemic presented a ‘double dip’ opportunity for Claes Iversen; while making the best possible use of the lockdowns by investing both in deepening the couture label’s design and artisanal qualities as well as developing a new branch for the brand, bridal fashion. To approach bridal fashion as a proper (semi) ready to wear label rather than the occasional couture assignment meant entering an entirely different industry with its own rhythm, rules, and rituals. A particularly traditional market within which Claes Iversen manages to offer a distinctive alternative: beautiful contemporary clothes, and yet answering to that romantic notion of ’the most beautiful day in a woman’s life’, in all-white.
Claes Iversen has ultimately managed to set up his company in such a way that he and his team can properly enjoy what they do. They present the couture collections when they are ready – not more than once a year – and make sure to have space for occasional collaborations varying from interior to corporate clothing to capsules for other brands, such as his recent collaboration with POM Amsterdam. With photography being another one of Claes’ passions, he bravely entered the Dutch tv show ‘Het Perfecte Plaatje’, which will air weekly on RTL4, starting from October 16, 2024.
Erik Frenken
Erik Frenken has been adamant in realizing his position from the beginning of his career. His professional stamina and recognizable progressive urban vision of affordable luxury fashion have established his name in Dutch fashion history and, indeed, around the globe.
Receiving the Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium ‘bought’ Frenken the time to thoroughly rethink his label. He decided to proceed with 2 collections a year instead of 4, but at a higher level of design and quality, and thus a higher price point. Although he and his Portuguese production partner first had to overcome the considerable set back that corona was to fashion retail, by now this new direction is bearing fruit.
The digital b2b platform JOOR and a carefully targeted Instagram account are the post-pandemic tools of choice for the perfect high-end retailers to discover and team up with FRENKEN. The switch brought about by the Mode Stipendium has landed Erik where he wants to be, nurturing and aiming at continuity for his brand’s strong position in the global high end womenswear market.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Francisco van Benthum
Menswear designer Francisco van Benthum has built an impressive legacy by consistently pushing the confines of traditional men’s fashion, be it with his eponymous luxury level label or in collaborations such as HACKED by__ and commissioned corporate fashion design.
The Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium was instrumental for bringing the Francisco van Benthum label to a next level, with a stronger international presence and a brand store in Amsterdam. Facing the reality of this growth as a ‘one man show’ business, along with a growing awareness of systemic issues in the fashion industry, became the prelude to a major transformation. In 2014 Francisco decided to discontinue his label and start the HACKED by_ project with fellow designer Alexander van Slobbe, collaborating with fashion partners ranging from boutique stores to big fast fashion retailers, redesigning and upcycling their access stock into new covetable designs. Pioneering sustainable fashion practices has been Van Benthum’s new ‘tightrope’ to balance ever since.
Francisco strengthened this vision in 2022 with RE_EDITIONED, a circular fashion brand that creates contemporary fashion by re-editing overstock from the fashion industry. These series of unique products are sold in limited editions. Next to that Francisco van Benthum specialized in sustainable corporate fashion for hotels and theaters, for example, working with re-design, reuse, and ecological and recycled materials.
Being able to enjoy your solution-specialized design practice by controlling its scale is also an important form of sustainability in this regard.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Ilja Visser
The very first Mode Stipendium was granted to womenswear designer Ilja Visser in support of her couture collection ‘AMBACHT’, an homage to the architecture of the Rijksmuseum, which was undergoing a decade-long renovation at the time.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Iris van Herpen
With her extraordinary inspiration and determination, designer Iris van Herpen has single-handedly introduced her signature design vocabulary and futurist techniques to the global visual language of fashion. A national fashion treasure par excellence.
Iris van Herpen has kept up with the Paris couture calendar ever since, impressing the international fashion elite time and again with her distinctive artistry. No small feat indeed. The Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium’s financial infusion aided in building the foundation for a unique global fashion brand that, by now, includes regular collaborations on art projects and red-carpet performances of high-profile celebrities, a bespoke and bridal service, and a small collection of accessories for direct-to-consumer sales. All pristinely documented on her website.
From from 29 November 2023 to 28 April 2024 the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris pays tribute ‘to one of the most forward-thinking fashion designers with the exhibition Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses.
Iris van Herpen is a fashion fantasy come true, inspiring a generation in her wake to believe in their own artistic vistas, no matter how far-fetched.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Jan Taminiau
Jan Taminiau is one of the best-known fashion names from The Netherlands and one of our last true couture houses with none other than Her Majesty Queen Máxima as his most prominent ambassador. A veritable flag bearer for Dutch fashion design.
When Jan Taminiau received the Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium in 2014 his star had risen to a summit in the wake of King Willem-Alexander’s coronation the year before, for which occasion Jan and his team had delivered the unforgettable royal blue gown and cape for our new queen. Máxima had already been a loyal client and patron since she wore Jan Taminiau’s iconic recycled mailbag jacket to the opening of the Arnhem Mode Biennale in 2009, and she remains so until today. For Jan Taminiau, reaching this level of fame and accolades marked a turning point as new clients from all over the world flocked to his studio and priorities needed to be set. Obeying show calendars was not one of them, delivering true artisanal beauty one exclusive gown at the time was. Jan denounces the essence of fashion, which is harmful in every way, and fervently hopes that the new appreciation for masterful craftsmanship is more than a fashion trend.
Love brought Jan Taminiau to Madrid, where, soon enough, he also found a new clientele, and the necessary highly skilled hands to work with. In 2019 he opened a second couture studio there, and for a while Jan and some of the team travelled back and forth to meet the demands of both ateliers. Ongoing corona measures in The Netherlands ultimately drove him to close his studio in Baambrugge in the summer of 2023.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
MAISON the FAUX
Joris Suk and Tessa de Boer of MAISON the FAUX are brave scouts in a new era in fashion, forward in their questioning of values and practices embedded in the industry, and fearless in exploring and establishing new roles for designers and affiliated artists.
After years of working within the realm of the rules of fashion and trying to bend the boundaries as much as possible, Joris Suk and Tessa de Boer of Maison the Faux felt a deep desire to explore new territory. In 2019 they decided to transform their ‘product focus’ from consumer goods to experiences: an investigation into what fashion and fashion shows can be as an art-form.
Receiving the Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium was an instrumental boost in this transition. Maison the Faux teamed up with the MU in Eindhoven to work on their autonomous project TIMELESSTIME, a multi-disciplinary installation involving fashion, performance, scenography, and audiovisual elements, which drew an especially large and diverse crowd during Dutch Design Week.
Moving into new realms of collaboration, such as theatre, opera, dance and museum exhibitions, means that as fashion designers, they now reach audiences beyond the familiar bubble of fashion lovers.
In September 2024 Maison the Faux re-launched the Boutique as a platform to release small concept collections and campaigns “to step back on to the fashion terrain fully on our own terms.” The first capsule titled I Love Me More is a made-to-order bridal collection consisting of four looks deconstructing and celebrating bridal clichés: the dress, bridal lingerie, the reception look and the morning after hang-over.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Mohamed Benchellal
Mohamed Benchellal fell under the spell of the fashion metier at an early age, having spent a lot of time in his Moroccan grandparents’ sewing workshop. Serious about craftsmanship, he took a training at the Mode Lyceum Amsterdam and soon after, in 2015, opened his atelier in Amsterdam. Lacking money, this couturier at heart developed a particular expertise in working with leftover materials, and manages to conjure extravagant, classic-looking yet highly sculptural couture creations from them which he shares in Instagram. Celebrity stylists soon caught on and before he knew it, high profile names like Sharon Stone, Billy Porter, Alicia Keys, Iris Apfel and, in The Netherlands, HRH Queen Máxima wore his creations.
The Arab fashion world also took great interest in his ‘radical elegance’ genius and Benchellal was invited for an extensive artist residency in Qatar. In recent years, it has rained awards such as the Vogue Arabia Fashion Prize in 2020, including a placement on Net-a-Porter, Fashion Trust Arabia’s award for evening wear in 2021 and he won ‘designer of the year’ at the Emigala Fashion Awards in 2022.
The list of royals Benchellal counts as his fans by now includes Queen Rania Al Abdullah of Jordan, the former editor-in-chief of Vogue Arabia Her Royal Highness Princess Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz, and last spring Her Majesty Queen Letizia of Spain honoured his talent wearing custom Benchellal during the official state visit to the Netherlands.
Mohamed Benchellal is currently preparing his solo exhibition in the National Museum of Qatar in Doha.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Ronald van der Kemp
Already a seasoned design professional in the international high end fashion arena, Ronald van der Kemp returned to Amsterdam to unleash his abundant talent in his eponymous ethical luxury label, and in doing so inspiring the entire industry.
Ronald van der Kemp founded the world’s first sustainable couture label RVDK back in 2014, and it has been impactful ever since. Referring to his team as ‘fashion alchemists’, he insists on his believe that ‘a form of art can change behaviour which leads to a bigger change in the industry’. His website states that one essential truth: “The world is full of beautiful things we can’t see anymore… because we are too busy to consider them, or too rookie to appreciate them.” RVDK simply numbers his serial releases as wardrobes to oppose the idea of his creations becoming inevitably outdated.
Working with leftover and discarded materials and turning them into the spunky joyful (demi-) couture level creations that are Ronald van der Kemp’s signature, has evolved beyond a fashion experiment and into a leading laboratory for future design practices and collaborations. Meanwhile enthusing new generations of designers to join in this mission, this is the true force of creativity right here: to be a guiding light.
To underscore his positive and progressive message RVDK launched a sustainable fragrance in collaboration with ‘rockstar nose’ Isaac Sinclair and Salle Privée called The Mind Vaccine in the summer of 2023.
In September 2024 RVDK celebrated 10 years of ‘positive circular couture realness’ with a spectacular public show in Amsterdam’s highstreets as well as in his beloved New York City.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Spijkers en Spijkers
Womenswear designers and sisters Truus and Riet Spijkers stood out from the very start of their Spijkers en Spijkers ready-to-wear label with a quirky, playful and graphic handwriting, a skilled fashion sense and an equally strong entrepreneurial spirit.
For Spijkers en Spijkers receiving the Mode Stipendium could not have come at a better time, as in 2013 they were ready to spread their wings across the Dutch border. They partnered with agents in Milan, and in China for the Asian market, where their highly ‘Instagramable’ ready-to-wear label was very well received, indeed. Alas, as we are all too aware, corona made all that growth grind to a sudden halt.
Truus and Riet Spijkers, running a relatively small company and being creative at their core, have the agility and power to move with the times. Instead of international wholesale and runway shows during Fashion Weeks from Amsterdam to Shanghai, they now have their own brand store in Arnhem catering directly to consumers. And instead of doing collaborations with major fashion partners – designing glasses for Specsavers, shoes for Van Dale, and a capsule for Claudia Sträter, corporate clothing for Citizen M, to name a few – Spijkers en Spijkers now choose to collaborate with other disciplines, such as visual art and jazz music. New perspectives, new audiences, and forever new inspiration to work with.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website
Youasme Measyou
With their knitwear label YOUASME MEASYOU, designer Mark van Vorstenbos and artist Twan Jansen pioneered with crowd funding, community feedback and virtual reality retail, introducing contemporary values such as transparency and inclusivity to fashion.
About the CULTUURFONDS MODE STIPENDIUM
More info on DFF website